The Photo Finish (Milford Track, Day 4)

March 6

It was another sunrise start for us when the generator kicked on at 6 a.m. We had an early morning kickoff again as our final stretch was 13 miles to reach the finish line at Sandfly Point. The good thing about this section of the track is that after a short descent, the hike was mostly flat. We decided that we now know the sweet spot for us on longish hikes is about 10 to 11 miles. Anything longer just plain sucks and isn’t much fun for our feet or backs.

This was the longest section of track as we continued into the Arthur Valley where we had our first break at the historic Boat Shed. Just before we arrived, we were lucky to see some rare birds again. This time, it was a black fantail or Pīwakawaka in Māori. These birds can live for up to 3 years. Their fanned tail helps them to change direction, like the rudder of a boat. They eat bugs and fruit, and can be occasionally seen hopping upside down to get insects from the underside of leaves. Only 5% of the population lives on the South Island so we were fortunate to see one.

And then we heard rustling in the branches and looked up to spot a very large, endangered Kererū, a New Zealand wood pigeon hanging out in the trees.

At the Boat Shed, we got our initial taste of the sandflies. Thankfully, we found refuge inside the shelter hut where we had tea and some snacks. Outside, there were more fantails enjoying their lunch snacking on the sandflies.

We hopped back on the trail and crossed the Arthur River on a wobbly suspension bridge with crystal clear water below. Before this bridge installation in 1970, they used to run a ferry service with row boats to take you from one side of the banks to the other. Thank goodness that wasn’t the case for us. From the bridge, you could see large trout in the river.

We continued hiking to Mackay Falls and the Bell Rock, a large boulder that had been hollowed out over time by waterfalls and turned upside down. We climbed the deck to check out the falls and ducked inside the rock to catch a glimpse. The guides said the record number of people inside the rock at one time was 19, and it was all Ultimate Hikes guides sometime last season.

Back on the trail, the walking continued. The rain and wind stopped and we finally retired that gear. We walked through lush ancient beech forest to our lunch spot at Giants Gate Waterfall where we reset our boots, changed socks and tried to avoid the swarming sandflies. They didn’t seem hungry as they were swarming but not biting thank goodness. Nevertheless we suited up and covered every inch of our skin.

Giving up the fight (we lost against the sandflies), we started the final stretch of the tranquil canopy covered rich green trails across wobbly bridges and rocky paths.

At 2:51pm, we crossed the finish line and celebrated our achievement at Sandfly Point, mile marker 33.5 with a photo opportunity to capture the moment. We now can truly understand why the Milford Track is considered one of the greatest walks on earth and why it’s captivated so many hikers for the past 150 years. We are so fortunate we had the opportunity to experience it.

There, we caught a small boat to take us across the renowned Milford Sound, the fjord often referred to as the eighth wonder of the world.

Our hosts were again waiting for us with hot tea and biscuits at the Mitre Peak Lodge. We checked in and they showed us to room 200, and were treated to an incredible view of Mitre Peak and the Milford Sound from our panoramic picture window.

Mitre Peak is a famously photographed mountain peak that rises almost sheer from the Sound to the height of 5,551 ft. We celebrated with drinks at the bar and then were treated with an exquisite sunset. A unique experience in Milford Sound, which is famous for clouds and rain.

After dinner, we took a short walk to see some nearby glowworms. The night sky was equally captivating with clear skies and full views of the constellations. It was a perfect way to top off the journey of a lifetime.