MitchMarch 14
We awoke to what Doubtful Sound is truly known for, rain and misty clouds floating over the mountain tops and along the banks. It was like an entirely different place we experienced yesterday, magical and mystical.
Breakfast was at 7 a.m., an OK buffet of continental and hot foods. Mitch was longing for a good coffee, but settled for an IHOP version instead.
Doubtful Sound is known as the “Sound of Silence” since it’s so remote with no direct road access. We got to experience that sound first-hand after sailing for another few hours and arriving at the end of one of the arms in the Sound with a beautiful waterfall cascading down the mountainside and into the fjord, Hall Arm.
Our nature guide called for everyone to go outside and find a place on the deck. He asked us to turn off our phones and put down our cameras. The captain turned off the engines and the generator for five minutes for a profound moment they call the “Sound of Silence,” a tradition the company has done on the ship since its inception
We found our places up on the top deck. Then, it became very still and quiet. Silence fell all around us as we were enveloped by the sounds of nature everywhere. We just listened to the sounds of the waterfalls and birdsongs. The Māori name for Doubtful Sound is Patea, which translates to “the place of silence.” It was a beautiful, serene and memorable moment.
Another hour of sailing brought us back to Deep Cove where we reversed our journey by bus then boat, where we saw an amazing rainbow on Lake Manapouri.
Back in civilization, we jumped in the car and headed to Milford Sound Lodge, our accommodation for the next few days. On the only road up, we made a few stops to take in the panoramic views.
First was Mirror Lakes, where the calm yet cloudy day cast a reflection of the Earl mountains.
We also saw these really cool Cormorant birds in their nest by the lake.
We drove a bit further out to Milford Sound and stopped at another lookout, Knobs Flat.
The clouds and rain intensified on our drive and as we waited for our turn to use the tunnel through the mountains, it started to hail. When we arrived at the lodge, it was pouring.
Thumbs down for heavy rain, thumbs up for waterfalls. Our room had an amazing view of the mountains, river and tons of waterfalls. We relaxed and enjoyed the view before heading off to dinner.
Pio Pio restaurant at the Milford Sound Lodge is the only place to eat for 72 miles. That goes for gas and a grocery store, too. Talk about remote. We were a captive audience when we dined there tonight and we were also very disappointed with the menu options and service. The overall experience was pretty underwhelming considering the many positive reviews and high prices.
What does deliver, however, are the sandflies. Ah yes, those buggers are back in full force and they are biting with a vengeance. I took some consolation in the fact that they found Mitch equally delicious (finally!). No sheet, no duvet, no oscillating fan can keep them away. They are the Superman of annoying insects. Insect repellent you say? Yeah, we tried that. They laughed and bit more.
As we headed to bed, a storm raged outside. Heavy rain battered the windows and rooftop, high wind whistled and whipped the trees and our room was shaking from the force of it all. This was a NZ version of The Wizard of Oz, except sandflies stood in for Toto. It was a fierce storm and I was glad to be cozied up inside, though wondering if our kayaking trip in the morning would be cancelled.
