VictoriaApril 21
We took the 10 a.m. ten minute ferry across the bay to the town of Paihia.
Our activity for the day was a visit to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds, NZ’s most important historic site, where the British and Māori people came together under the Treaty of Waitangi in 1840. It’s considered the birthplace of New Zealand. There is definitely a contrast between the document and the reality and tensions between the two groups still exist today.
We thought this quote captured the essence of the Māori struggles that still exist today. Henare was a Member of Parliament from The Bay of Islands, representing Northern Māori. He believed passionately in education as a liberating force, and fought for an education system that would recognise local and Māori needs within the overarching framework of the Treaty of Waitangi. Like many of his ancestors, he regarded the Treaty as a covenant, which the government had a sacred duty to safeguard and to keep in the forefront of public consciousness.
We boarded a van from the Paihia marina for the short drive to the grounds. The expansive 1,000 acre grounds are gorgeous, overlooking the Bay of Islands and we marveled at the view.
We began our visit watching a Māori cultural performance at the Te Whare Runanga, an authentic meeting house. The performance included songs and a traditional war dance or haka.
After the performance we were given a guided tour of the Treaty Grounds by our knowledgeable guide Cici. She was one of the best tour guides we’ve ever had. She’s a former English and history teacher and spoke Mandarin, Māori and English. Her knowledge of the Māori history and culture was impressive.
We saw the world’s largest ceremonial war canoe (waka), which is launched every February for Waitangi Day. The Māori name for the canoe is Ngatokimatawhaorua. A name as long as the canoe itself (118 feet)!
We reenergized over a great lunch at the cafe, did some bird watching and then explored the excellent museums on our own.
We learned how the Māori used the stars and wind to navigate and about Kupe, the first Polynesian ancestor to arrive in NZ from Hawaiki. Legend has it Kupe discovered NZ in pursuit of a giant octopus, which he chased around the Pacific, exploring new land.
We spent five hours at the Waitangi Treaty Grounds and could have stayed even longer. We took the ferry back to Russell, chilled out for a few hours, and walked to dinner at Duke of Marlborough in town. NZ issued The Duke the country’s first liquor license in 1841. Great food, lousy service. Better than the other way around I guess.
