VictoriaApril 22
Today was our Fullers Hole in the Rock boat tour around the Bay of Islands. The seas were calm after a windy night so it made for a pleasant journey.
There are 144 islands in the Bay of Islands, known as the “winterless North” due to its mild winters. In 2006, the Bay of Islands was found to have the second bluest sky in the world after Rio de Janeiro.
We first sailed to Motuarohia (island of the beloved) or Robertson Island. Captain James Cook anchored his boat, The Endeavor, off this island with twin lagoons when he visited the Bay of Islands in 1769. He took shelter here for 10 days and gave it the name the Bay of Islands.
Our skipper, Kate, took the boat out into the Pacific Ocean and steered us towards Piercy Island, aka Hole in the Rock (also known as Motu Kōkako), the tour’s namesake. We floated just off the point of Cape Brett to check out the lighthouse.
And then we continued out further to explore Piercy Island.
At the northern tip of Cape Brett, Piercy Island is of great cultural significance to the Ngapuhi tribe. It was the landing place of the canoe Tunui-a-rangi before it sailed to Whangārei, the town where we did our cultural Tu Tika Māori tour.
Made of limestone, the 60 foot hole in the rock passage was initially created by a fault line, and later eroded by wind and waves. Kate debated on whether she was going to take the boat through the opening, and after a few minutes decided the wind, tide, swell and lack of divers was in our favor, and she forged ahead. Collectively, the passengers on the boat held their breath as she expertly maneuvered through the arch.
We circumvented the island to check out the guardian of the Bay of Islands, Tetukatiamoana. You can see a lady’s face looking directly north out to the Pacific. It’s said Tetukatiamoana protects these waters.
After checking that out, we sailed back to Urupukapuka Island, searching for marine life along the way. We only saw a few fur seals. No whales, dolphins or other exciting mammals.
Urupukapuka Island is the largest in the Bay of Islands at 520 acres and comprises 23 bays and beaches. We disembarked at this island for an hour and a half and walked up to the overlook for a panoramic view of the bay.
After our tour we drove further north up the coast towards Doubtless Bay. Once again, in 1769, Cook was unable to enter the bay due to the direction of the wind, hence the name.
To get there, we left Russell and took the Opua ten minute vehicle ferry, which was the perfect amount of time to make a quick veggie wrap sandwich for lunch in the RV while we made the crossing.
We carried on driving north for another hour and arrived at the Mangonui Lions Park freedom camping spot, our home for the night.
There were two other vehicles there, so we were able to stay with no issues even though the lot was large enough to hold many more. There was a double rainbow over the bay when we parked, so I took that as a favorable sign that we would be safe for the night.
Mangonui means “big shark.” It’s an historic fishing village and one of the oldest ports in NZ.
We strolled into town when most of the shops had already closed for the day. The sun was starting to set as we walked along the boardwalk.
Not at all hungry for dinner, we sauntered into the famous Mangonui Fish Shop out of curiosity. The shop has been at the same site for 70 years and is just over 300 feet from the wharf, delivering the freshest fish imaginable.
Overcome by the array of freshly caught fish, we couldn’t resist and placed an order for a blue cod fish and chips. We ate overlooking Doubtless Bay, not doubting the delicious meal at all.
